We have not had high speed internet access for the last two weeks, so we could not update the site. The islands we are visiting are very remote and generally do not have internet (and in some cases, people). So we will not be able to update the site weekly as we have been, but hopefully should be able to update once or twice a month Keep checking -- we love to share our adventure with you.
On Monday the 9th we were pleased to receive the replacement membranes for the water maker; Bob put them in and immediately the unit started to work as it should; we're now making our own water at about 10 gallons an hour. Ran back to the marina to see if the Fed Ex package had arrived with the new computer cable. Nothing. Back to the boat, to make water and experience another rolly night at the anchorage. The wind was out of the east with no protection, which made us feel as if we were in a washing machine.
First thing Tuesday morning, we rushed back to the marina to wait for Fed Ex. We made good friends with Martin, the security guard, who will come visit us in Connecticut. After two hours, the cable arrived. We dashed back to the boat, got it installed and everything was working again. Now we're both happy. Wind still blowing 25+, so it's not a good day to leave Nassau, but.. we did move anchorage. We didn't want another night of being in a washing machine. We went west and found a pretty little spot right across from the cruise ships. The current was strong but the holding was good.
Early Wednesday morning, we left Nassau and sailed to Allan's Cay, leaving behind the hubbub of a city and the glamour of Paradise Island ("paved paradise to put up a parking lot," is all that went through our heads as we walked around Paradise island).
We had our first experience in reading the water, and needing to watch for patches of coral reefs. Charts here are not as accurate as we are familiar with in the US, so you must do a lot with eyesight, and depend on bright sun overhead. Bob was lookout, while Maggie was at the helm - "turn to starboard... turn to port ... get back on course ... to starboard, to starboard, more...." and so it went. Scary to say the least, sometime you are right on top of the coal before you see it. "Hard to port, hard to starboard."
Allan's and neighboring Leaf Cay are known for rock iguanas; they are protected by the Bahamian government and although signs are posted not to feed them, everyone does, and they expect it. It's funny to see them come running out from the bushes when they hear the dinghy.
We went back to the boat for lunch and to see what was going to happen with the threatening sky.
The rain was to the northwest, and our skies cleared. We donned our wet suits and dinghied around the islands to find
some reefs for snorkeling - this is what we came to the Bahamas for.
We tested our new glass-bottom Looky Bucket, how
clear we can see the bottom from the bucket.
Thursday was a beautiful and restful day. We knew from the daily 6:30a weather reports from Chris Parker that another front was on the way, so we enjoyed the calm before the storm. Just as we were feeling that we had found a piece of paradise ... the tour boats came rushing in ... we all want paradise! Over a hundred iguanas rushed to the shore when the saw the Island World logo. Feeding time! Bob was disappointed that this remote island that we had traveled so far to see was being taken over by high speed tour boats from Nassau. We think they come from the cruise ships. Bob thinks they are planning to pave over the island soon.
We left early Friday morning to find protection from the front coming in. We went by Highborne Cay and concluded the anchorage was too exposed to the Northeast, so we went south onto Exuma Sound and pounded our way to Norman's Cay.
Norman's is well known as the location for a huge drug smuggling operation in the 70s and 80s; entering the anchorage we passed a sunken airplane evidence of this island's past.
With the anchor set at noon, Bob readied SeaTryst for the expected 30+ knot winds, and put out a second anchor, and then dove on both to make doubly sure they were set. We lowered the dinghy and toured Norman's in search of MacDuff's, the island's only restaurant/bar. We found out it is closed until March. Well, that's what we were told when we asked someone; later we saw a sign that said it would be open in November (not sure what year). Again we're on Island Time! We walked the beach on the Banks side, and wished we had our camera - ours were the only two footprints on the beach, which ran for several miles.
Another gold-star day (one where we
spend no money), we went to the boat for a quiet dinner in the
cockpit and wait for the squalls and the front. It arrived about
5:00a, with 38kt winds.
With 30-38kt winds for 13ours, we stood watch all day, as did the 10 other boats in the harbor; a couple had to move to safer holding. Our anchors held. As the day went on, it got cooler, so we had to pull out our New England clothes. Bob still refused to put on long pants, so snuggled in a blanket! It was a very long day!!! Chris Parker said it was the strongest cold front he has seen in several years.
Bob had help on his watch.
The wind blew all night, so we were up and down. Everything was secure and we were safe. Sunday was another breezy day with 20-28 kt winds, so we cleaned the boat and Maggie did laundry.
On Monday, we weighed anchor and went about 4 hrs to Exuma Land & Sea Park. What a beautiful place. About 16 boat on moorings enjoying the beautiful protected cays. No paving paradise here! After snorkeling near Emerald Rock, we walked to BooBoo Hill to see notes left by other boaters, and then to the blow holes, and around to the beaches.
Our mooring was not good for the southeast winds we were getting, and after listening to the weather Tuesday, we decided it was a good day to move. We soon discovered the forecast was wrong and we had made the wrong decision. For 4 hours we beat into 23-26kt winds as we made our way toward Staniel Cay. While approaching the anchorage at Big Majors Spot about 3:00 and taking down the mainsail, Maggie's favorite hat blew off (Phil, she wasn't using the HRS!), so Bob circled the boat around and she grabbed it with the boathook; it was a good MOB drill!
After setting the anchor, and lowering the dinghy, we beat our way to shore, where we found the Yacht Club, and learned about 3 super markets nearby (three shelves with about 20 to 30 items is not what we would call a Super Market).
Thunderball Cave is here, which is where the movies Thunderball and Splash were filmed. We're in a good place for the next front (do they ever end?!), and to be settled for a few days. One good thing is that are batteries remain fully charged with the wind generator.
We visited Fowl Cay Resort -- talk about Paradise!
Owned by Libby and Stewart Brown, friends of the Tuschick's, they have developed the island into a resort with 5 beautiful houses each with its own spectacular views. Recently written up in Coastal Living, this truly is Paradise. Both of us could not believe how beautiful. It's the first time we have been on a private cay.
We stayed through the weekend, while the winds blew about 20+. At the beach near our boat are "wild" pigs, who will swim out to your dingy begging for scraps.
The water is so clear, Bob looked down from the boat, saw conch, and put on his mask and fins, hoping to get dinner. You can see the conch just to the left of him, about 10 feet down. The picture does not do justice to how clear the water is.
Through the weekend, we swam, snorkeled, and caught up on chores. Maggie is really getting into the snorkeling, wet suit and all. Thunderball Cave is spectacular and has loads of colorful fish just waiting for handouts.
Bob played pool
at Club Thunderball, a local pub/restaurant before their weekly BBQ (we
don't want to know where they got those ribs!).
At dinner we sat with Joan and Tony. Joan has lived on Staniel Cay for 40 years; Tony is a long-time friend who is building a house there. We discovered how small this world is - Tony lives on Block Island and knew Bob's father very well.
Back at the boat, Rosie is getting into the laid back atmosphere of the Bahamas.
We will continue to move south (we keep saying that! we are only 55 miles from George Town), and our only hope is to beat Larry and Pat to George Town, where they're coming to visit us next month. We're psyched and will need to find a place to buy Grand Mariner (Bob says as long as it cost less then $20 ) and plenty of wine and chocolate.